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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.